Tag Archives: finished garments

FO x 2: (well 3 technically!) My perfect boxy tee

One might say that this simple boxy tee was nearly 3 years in the making! Why? Because I discovered an abandoned experiment in my stash from that time period. I picked it up…looked at it quizzically….wondered why it had been cast aside because…it looked like just the kind of tee I’d been looking for recently. So I sewed it up in half an hour and what do you know….it was exactly the shape and proportion I had been hankering after in my wardrobe. So I made 2 more!

self drafted box tee (5)

The first being this incarnation in a pique type knit from Stoff & Stil. I love the irregular sketchy arrows and the monochrome makes it a really versatile addition. The top is self drafted….but very simply so. Rectangles for body and sleeves but with a slight curve for the sleeve heads and armholes, and curves cut out for the front and back neckline. My original experimental one was literally just rectangles but I loved the proportions so much that I drafted a pattern and added in those subtle refinements….self drafted box tee (5)self drafted box tee

Then I liked that one so much that I made another! Also in a Stoff & Stil fabric. This is a slightly looser version. But all 3 (the original, which is black, and these two) are in constant rotation. It’s like I had my holy grail of tees sitting in my WIP pile for 3 years! What the heck?!! Revisit your WIPs people! Seriously….you started them for a reason!self drafted box tee self drafted box tee

So needless to say….I will be making a few more of these.

I also want to direct your attention to the neckbands on these babies. Notice they are perfectly turned in and laying flat? Well in the past this has always been a bit touch and go for me. (wavy neckbands anyone? Ack!) But I have been working on a formula for calculating the exact length of neckband you need, for any given neckline circumference….and any given fabric. (You may have read my initial ruminations here!) Because…it seemed to me that I needed to factor in the stretch percentage of the fabric I was using. A fabric with 40% stretch was not going to turn in the same way as a 60% stretch fabric cut to the same length. Well if my last few knit makes are anything to go by…I’ve nailed it! And there will be a post coming your way soon. So if you ever got frustrated at wavy or puckered neckbands….stay tuned!

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FO: Ponte Linden (+ thoughts on achieveing the perfect knit neckband!)

Well what do you know? The sun was shining on Sunday (as it is today, hurrah!!) so I ducked out to get a few daylight shots of this new Linden…I’ll preface this post by warning you that I meander into alot of theorising and calculating the length of the perfect neckband based on the stretch percentage of the fabric you use. So if that is likely to make your eyes roll back in your head….look away now, lol!ponte linden

I cut down a size this time round and went for view B. The fit across the upper bust, neckline and shoulders turned out way better. I haven’t quite fathomed why there is so much excess at the hem and under the bust. Although to be fair I haven’t given it a great deal of thought because I’m not overly bothered. I suspect it’s a combination of the need for an FBA and perhaps that the ponte that I used has more drape (and stretch, which I’ll come to in a bit!) than the recommended sweatshirt fabric. No matter. I still love it and it’s worn as soon as it comes out of the drier. (Also, the folds are nowhere near as exaggerated IRL. I think perhaps the photo being taken in full sun ramped up the shadow and contrast somewhat!)

ponte linden

So…the fabric!  It’s this beauuuuutiful ponte from Dragonfly fabrics in the Bark colourway. Now on special so probably won’t be around for long!. So.Freakin.Soft.  What’s more, I was really taken with the contrasting RS and WS of this fabric and decided to play with that on this make…

ponte linden

Construction was as per pattern instructions…except as I said, I reversed the fabric on the front and back pieces so the body contrasted with the sleeves…

ponte linden

Oh…and  I added a split hem band similar to my Maya top here

ponte linden

Regular readers will perhaps remember that I raised the neckline on my Linden pattern as it sat a little too wide on me. You can read the simple “how to” on that adjustment here. But of course, adjusting the width of the neckline means you need to cut a new neckband piece because the circumference of the neckline has changed. As luck would have it the width of the pattern piece for the neckline band is more or less the same as my 2″ wide roll of masking tape. And you know how I love a bit of a masking tape cheat, lol!

So….all that remained was for me to establish the new circumference of the neckline and cut a new neckband piece to fit. Up until this point I’ve always just cut a neckband approx 2″ smaller than the circumference of the neckline. To varying degrees of success. Sometimes that would work pretty well. Sometimes not. So I decided to delve a little into the maths of the perfect knit neckline. Somewhere, and for the life of me I can’t find that post no, (**update: it’s here! Thanks Gillian!) I read about a slightly different way of measuring the neckline for a knit….ponte linden

Instead of measuring the circumference, you take the total measurement between those 3 points above….and cut the neckband to that size. This made good sense to me so I though I’d give it a go. To give you an idea, the neckline circumference was 61cm. Measuring between those 3 points gave me a measurement of 52.5cm. So a difference of 8.5cm which is a little over 3″ shorter than the actual neckline (I usually cut about 2″ shorter so I was optimistic that shortening the band by that extra inch would yield an improvement)…

ponte linden

So….with my trusty roll of masking tape I marked out a strip 52.5cm long on my fabric (plus a small serger SA)…

ponte linden

Joined it, folded it, then marked the centre and side points…

ponte linden

And lined those up with the corresponding CF/CB and shoulder points on my neckline. So you can see the theory in practice here. The band should stretch to fill in those gaps and therefore turn the neckline in, so it lays flat once sewn. Awesome.

ponte linden

Now, it actually yielded a pretty good neckline! It lays perfectly in the front, but is a teeny bit baggy in the back neckline. Meaning the neckband was probably, among other things, still slightly too long. But seriously it’s miniscule, and doesn’t really  warrant the geek out I’m about to embark on. But sometimes I just fall down a geeky rabbit hole and need to get it straight in my head. So…..I started ruminating on how I needed to tweak my technique and play with the math to establish the correct length of the neckband. I think I made an error on 2 fronts….

ponte linden (6)a

Referring back to that picture of my neckline I’ve now marked in those 3 points as A, B, and C. Now, when I marked the alignment points on the neckline band I just defaulted to CB/CF and crucially, put my shoulder alignment marks midway between those two points. But , (and this is where I think I went wrong) the distance from shoulder point to shoulder point, is different across the back neckline (A to B), than it is at the front neckline (A to C to B). So actually it’s not an even distribution of the neckband around the neckline, but a proportional one….

ponte linden (10)a

So what I’m thinking I should have done (and I’d like to hear your thoughts on this peops), is measure from A to B, and mark my shoulder points along the back neckline according to that measurement. However, moving those points back will mean more neckband length needs to be absorbed into the front neckline. And well….that’s no good because at the moment it’s sitting perfectly. Gah! Which means, actually it’s still too long. Which brings me onto the dreaded stretch percentage…

I actually don’t think there is a hard and fast formula/rule that will work on every project I suspect it’s a combination of factors….and stretch percentage HAS to be factored in. So I needed to work that out in order to try and reverse calculate what my perfect neckband length should have been, with stretch percentage taken into account…ponte linden

What you’re looking at here is my metre rule, laid flat on my cutting table and butted up against a wall so it won’t go anywhere. A folded band of my fabric bulldog clipped to the end of my ruler.

ponte linden

I take hold of the fabric with my thumbnail at the 10cm mark…

ponte linden

Then stretch it along the ruler until I feel it reaching the limits of it’s stretch capacity, and note the number my thumbnail reaches. 15 in this case.

So, to calculate stretch percentage it’s the second measurement (15) divided by the first (10) then minus 1. Which in this instance is 0.5. Which means this fabric has a stretch percentage of 50%.

Now, here’s my theory, that I intend to test out on my next neckline. And again, I’d love your thoughts on this. Using the “triangle measurement” method I cut my neckband at 52.5cm. (Apologies for flitting between metric and imperial peops!) The actual circumference of my neckline was 61 cm. Same calculation as above  (61/52.5)-1= 0.16.  So the neckband that I’m attaching is stretching by 16% to get round the circumference of the neckline.  For a fabric with 50% stretch, that’s less than half the potential stretch available to me on this particular neckline. Now I know, from how the neckband turned out that it’s not quite stretching enough to lay completely flat all the way around.  Which means I’m close, but not quite close enough.

So how about this….if I theorise/guestimate that I want to use half of the stretch percentage available to me, (to get a balance between stretching but not over stretching my neckband), then I would need this band to stretch by 25%….and therefore be 25% smaller than my neckline. So….if I take my original neckline circumference of 61cm and reduce that by 25% as follows 61 x 0.25 = 15.25 then 61 – 15.25 = 45.75cm.

So, if I had cut my neckline at 45.75 cm instead of 52.5cm….would it have laid flat all the way round?  It’s a difference of 6″ to the neckline circumference so it sounds extreme. Hmm…not sure about that one. 6″ seems alot doesn’t it? 3″ shorter than I actually cut it. The finished neckline wasn’t THAT far wrong. Perhaps I should strike the middle ground between the 16% difference the “triangle method” gave me and the 25% figure and opt for a neckband 20% shorter than the neckband circumference. That would make my neckband 4.8″ shorter than my neckline. 1.8″ shorter than I actually cut it. That sounds more feasible to me. Knowing how the back neckline turned out that 1.8″ less in the neckband would probably have done it

In any case, I’m beginning to conclude that using the triangle method of measuring the neckline will get me in the right ball park; but that needs to be counter checked with the stretch percentage of the fabric I’m using. This COULD be the key to getting the right neckband ratio for any given project. (I don’t think it’s as simple as just cutting the neckband 3″ shorter than the neckline every time, when you take into account that some fabrics will need to stretch more in order to sit flat.)  I’m leaning towards calculating the stretch percentage of the fabric, then using somewhere between a third to a half of the stretch potential of the fabric, (so basically 2/5) to calculate the neckband length, based on the neckline circumference. Clear as mud right, lol?!

What say you?? Does the above make sense? Are any of my calculations off? (I’m no maths genius, lol!) Do you have your own method??? Share away peops. Let’s geek out together!

 

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FO: Burda 102 “Short Coat”

Whilst I was making this coat I started to worry that by the time I finished it, the weather would have warmed up, and I wouldn’t need to wear it. Most people would make a coat at the start of the winter. Nah! I’m gonna make my coat at the end of the winter and then not be able to wear it! Well I needn’t have worried. The weather remains resolutely chilly, with blustery, bitingly cold winds. Perfect!burda 102 short coat

I could have made this coat months ago. I had the fabric. A beautiful mouflon felt wool from Dragonfly fabrics, like, 4 months ago. Truth be told, the delay was in no small way, down to the fabric being so lush that I was a tad intimidated about cutting into it until I had it clear in my head exactly what I was going  to do with it. I originally had loose plans for a self drafted kimono style coat with big cuffs. And actually that would have been easy enough to do. But the fear got me! I’d never made a lined coat before. (I’ll come onto the delicious lining in a bit!). I knew the lining and shell fabric combo I’d selected had the potential to be super lovely. And I didn’t want to squander that on an experiment. So I played it safe and opted to use a pattern. Enter the snappily titled “Three Quarter Sleeve Coat 08/2014 #102” from Burda. Originally from a 2014 issue of the magazine I believe, but now available in pdf format…burda 102 short coat

I really liked the simplicity of the design and it was very similar to a raft of coat images I’d been pinning for inspiration. The proportions were fun too. Huge oversized pockets and 3/4 length bell sleeves. It’s just about the right side of oversized for me, without feeling like I’m drowning in coat…burda 102 short coat

And yeah…I lined this puppy, and I did a pretty good job!!

So here it is in close up…burda short coat 102

The neckline was one of the things that appealed to me about this coat.  I don’t like fussy collars. And this is the perfect shape to wear as is, or pop a cowl over the top on super cold days without it getting all caught up on a collar. This part did require a little fitting. There was some annoying gaping at the back neckline, which I resolved by adding 2 x 1″  neck darts (about 4″ long) either side of the CB on the shell, then taking the equivalent amount out of the back neck facing at the CB.

I also really liked the clean finish on the outside….

burda short coat 102

Achieved by virtue of these giant snaps in a gunmetal grey!  Not visible when the coat is done up. This is a good time to mention the front overlap on this pattern. I took an inch off the entire length of the opening on either side. The overlap was mightily excessive in my view and I could probably still have gotten away with  a bit more; and shaving that much off also takes the proportions down a notch; as this pattern has much roomier proportions than the photo on the site might suggest. It looks much neater and more compact in the pattern image than it is in reality. burda short coat 102

It’s fine, because I love my new coat! But I had to make a few tweaks to get it there, ya know? The original “straight from the pattern” coat swamped me and I am by no means tiny. The fit in the armhole was right so I knew it wasn’t just a case of cutting it too big. Apart from the fit adjustments at the neck and overlap I also shaved a good 4″ off the length.

burda short coat 102

So the snaps  I used in the end are these gunmetal grey ones. Purchased on Ebay at £5.50 for 10. Which is pretty good value I think.  At 25mm in diameter they are a decent size and fit well with the colour and oversized proportions of the coat. Originally I really, really, REALLY wanted to use these larger poppers (below left and at the back in the image above). At 30mm they are roughly the size of a 50p coin and would have looked crazy in a good way. Sadly for the colour of the coat they just looked a little too shiny and contrasty and I couldn’t get that size in the gunmetal or black. But I’m sure I’ll use them at some point!burda short coat 102

Talking of oversized! Another favourite feature of this coat for me are the huuuuuuge pockets! I didn’t face these as the pattern called for. Nor did I turn the edges under. Reasoning that my machine may struggle with the bulk and that this was a felt wool so wouldn’t fray. So I simply top stitched my pocket in place like so…burda short coat 102

I juuuuust about got away with this. Despite the name of this fabric it’s not quite like felt in the fraying stakes. There is a slight tendency for fraying. You can just about see some “whiskers” at the base of my pocket. Call me weird but this doesn’t bother me one jot. It’s not the kind of fraying that is going to affect the integrity of your seams, I trimmed away the worst offenders and I am a fan of slightly “unfinished” finishes. So I’m good. But worth a mention. Also worth a mention is the pocket placement on the pattern. Just ignore it! It’s waaaaay to low! I placed mine according to where my sleeve finished with my arms at my side; so that the pockets take up the slack of the shorter sleeves and keep my wrists warm!

Also a good opportunity, with this picture and the one above, to talk about the surface texture of this fabric. One side is felt like and softly bristled. The other side (which I think is technically the wrong side, lol) is super hairy and kinda like a sparse mohair, and that is the side that I used. Just because! I figure if it’s already fluffy, then any fluff it picks up will just look like it was meant to be there, right? In any case….look at that texture. Love!

burda short coat 102

So also featured above is a close up of the seaming detail at the neck/shoulder which is another nice feature of this pattern. The shoulder and sleeves are split up into sections and seamed together which gives an interesting point of interest to an otherwise plain coat. I topstitched either side of all of those seams to accentuate and bring them out even more.

In terms of pressing this wool. Some steam and a satisfying “thwack” with a chunky wooden object will give you a satisfactorily crisp edge 😉burda short coat 102

As can be seen below. The bulkiest part where the facing meets the hem and the lining….just gave that a ruddy good bashing and the job was a goodun…burda short coat 102

Which of course brings me nicely onto the lining and how beautifully it goes with the mouflon wool!

burda short coat 102

It’s this dotty black and grey viscose lining from The Splendid Stitch. What I love about it, apart from how silky it feels, is the fact that the dots are random and irregularly placed and shaped. Which lends a kind of cheeky rebelliousness to a traditionally  girly fabric….burda short coat 102

If we can all take a moment to admire that sheen….and that well inserted lining….and the fact that I even took the time to purchase and sew on a hanging loop…

 

Which might lead you to conclude that I consider this coat to be a success and a keeper…burda 102 short coat

burda 102 short coat

Well, you’d be right! And just for the record when it comes to these photos…I did brush my hair before I left the house….it was just really, REALLY windy that day. But that’s ok. Cos mama’s got a brand new coat 😉

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The Copycat Crepe Top – (Part 1) + Giveaway!!!

copycat crepe top

So last week heralded a couple of firsts for me.  Actually three to be precise! A week of learning new stuff you could say. Which after a week of battling with fit issues was a welcome change.  Sometimes, if something is getting on your wick, you just gotta park it and switch focus to shake off the fog I think. A change is as good as a rest after all. And after a week of what felt like pulling teeth, the week I spent doing this, went so smoothly I started looking around behind me to see where the sewing demon was hiding. Wondering when it was going to jump out and fluff my make right at the eleventh hour. Said demon must be off in the Bahamas somewhere. (Shedquarters is obviously too cold for that fiery little devil at this time of year 😉  )  Because nothing went wrong on this make and there was so much that could have!

So now you’re possibly wondering what my 3 firsts were? Well this top is actually a direct copy of a top I found in a charity shop. I didn’t like the colour and it was 1-2 sizes too big. But I really liked the style.  A crepe tee with a relaxed fit , simple scoop neck, and shirt tail hem.  I hadn’t seen a pattern exactly like this, so I decided to make a pattern of my own, copying the pattern pieces directly from that ready to wear top on the left (below)  I toiled it (middle below) and what do ya know? It worked.  But, still too big. Then people, I was really pushing my luck. I decided I would have a go at grading my new pattern to the correct size. And blow me, that only went and worked too! (below right)THE COPYCAT CREPE TOP

So that’s two firsts. Producing an exact copy of a rtw top AND grading. I was going to include all of that process in today’s post but there turned out to be waaaaay too much for one post. So next week I’ll be sharing 2 additional posts. One on the copying of the pattern. (now available here) One on the grading of it… (now available here)THE COPYCAT CREPE TOP

And what of my third first this week? Set in sleeves! Of course I’ve sewn set in sleeves before; but I hate them with a passion and I’m pretty rubbish and impatient with the traditional method. So this week I tried the method of inserting them flat (turns out pretty much everyone I know already does this) and oh my! I could have cried with happiness! Look at that sleeve head people! Gorgeous right?! Never again will I avoid sewing stuff with set in sleeves just because it’s a faff! (Yes I am that lazy!)sleeve head

There’s still a few tweaks I think I need to make to the final pattern. Namely some discreet darts in the front,  and, surprise surprise, a sway back adjustment! But on a top like this, designed to be a relaxed, chilled out fit I was more than happy to make it up as is, in some delicious Isobel poly viscose crepe from The Splendid Stitch. As well as the black it’s currently also available in the three colours on the right. (I’m hoping Amy will expand her colour range on this one!) The cream best shows the gorgeous texture. It is SO soft. Super easy to work with. Drapes beautifully and best of all, straight out of the machine and onto the hanger with super minimal creasing. That my friends, is my holy grail of a fabric!Splendid Stitch Isobel Poly Viscose Crepe

 

Giveaway details: Amy from The Splendid Stitch is offering you guys the chance to win either £30 to spend on fabric from her beautiful range (first prize) or a sewing pattern of your choice (second prize). To enter follow The Splendid Stitch on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or their blog. Each follow is an additional entry. Just leave me a comment here to let me know how many entries you made. Giveaway is open internationally (The Splendid Stitch is Glasgow based but ships worldwide) and closes midnight GMT on Monday 29th Feb. The winner will be selected at random and contacted directly by email. (Leave that in the comments too if it’s not easily accessible via your profile).

What’s more,  until the end of February, Amy is also offering you an extra 15% off your purchase when you enter the code PORTIA15 at checkout! Thankyou very much Amy!

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