FO: Burda 102 “Short Coat”

Whilst I was making this coat I started to worry that by the time I finished it, the weather would have warmed up, and I wouldn’t need to wear it. Most people would make a coat at the start of the winter. Nah! I’m gonna make my coat at the end of the winter and then not be able to wear it! Well I needn’t have worried. The weather remains resolutely chilly, with blustery, bitingly cold winds. Perfect!burda 102 short coat

I could have made this coat months ago. I had the fabric. A beautiful mouflon felt wool from Dragonfly fabrics, like, 4 months ago. Truth be told, the delay was in no small way, down to the fabric being so lush that I was a tad intimidated about cutting into it until I had it clear in my head exactly what I was going  to do with it. I originally had loose plans for a self drafted kimono style coat with big cuffs. And actually that would have been easy enough to do. But the fear got me! I’d never made a lined coat before. (I’ll come onto the delicious lining in a bit!). I knew the lining and shell fabric combo I’d selected had the potential to be super lovely. And I didn’t want to squander that on an experiment. So I played it safe and opted to use a pattern. Enter the snappily titled “Three Quarter Sleeve Coat 08/2014 #102” from Burda. Originally from a 2014 issue of the magazine I believe, but now available in pdf format…burda 102 short coat

I really liked the simplicity of the design and it was very similar to a raft of coat images I’d been pinning for inspiration. The proportions were fun too. Huge oversized pockets and 3/4 length bell sleeves. It’s just about the right side of oversized for me, without feeling like I’m drowning in coat…burda 102 short coat

And yeah…I lined this puppy, and I did a pretty good job!!

So here it is in close up…burda short coat 102

The neckline was one of the things that appealed to me about this coat.  I don’t like fussy collars. And this is the perfect shape to wear as is, or pop a cowl over the top on super cold days without it getting all caught up on a collar. This part did require a little fitting. There was some annoying gaping at the back neckline, which I resolved by adding 2 x 1″  neck darts (about 4″ long) either side of the CB on the shell, then taking the equivalent amount out of the back neck facing at the CB.

I also really liked the clean finish on the outside….

burda short coat 102

Achieved by virtue of these giant snaps in a gunmetal grey!  Not visible when the coat is done up. This is a good time to mention the front overlap on this pattern. I took an inch off the entire length of the opening on either side. The overlap was mightily excessive in my view and I could probably still have gotten away with  a bit more; and shaving that much off also takes the proportions down a notch; as this pattern has much roomier proportions than the photo on the site might suggest. It looks much neater and more compact in the pattern image than it is in reality. burda short coat 102

It’s fine, because I love my new coat! But I had to make a few tweaks to get it there, ya know? The original “straight from the pattern” coat swamped me and I am by no means tiny. The fit in the armhole was right so I knew it wasn’t just a case of cutting it too big. Apart from the fit adjustments at the neck and overlap I also shaved a good 4″ off the length.

burda short coat 102

So the snaps  I used in the end are these gunmetal grey ones. Purchased on Ebay at £5.50 for 10. Which is pretty good value I think.  At 25mm in diameter they are a decent size and fit well with the colour and oversized proportions of the coat. Originally I really, really, REALLY wanted to use these larger poppers (below left and at the back in the image above). At 30mm they are roughly the size of a 50p coin and would have looked crazy in a good way. Sadly for the colour of the coat they just looked a little too shiny and contrasty and I couldn’t get that size in the gunmetal or black. But I’m sure I’ll use them at some point!burda short coat 102

Talking of oversized! Another favourite feature of this coat for me are the huuuuuuge pockets! I didn’t face these as the pattern called for. Nor did I turn the edges under. Reasoning that my machine may struggle with the bulk and that this was a felt wool so wouldn’t fray. So I simply top stitched my pocket in place like so…burda short coat 102

I juuuuust about got away with this. Despite the name of this fabric it’s not quite like felt in the fraying stakes. There is a slight tendency for fraying. You can just about see some “whiskers” at the base of my pocket. Call me weird but this doesn’t bother me one jot. It’s not the kind of fraying that is going to affect the integrity of your seams, I trimmed away the worst offenders and I am a fan of slightly “unfinished” finishes. So I’m good. But worth a mention. Also worth a mention is the pocket placement on the pattern. Just ignore it! It’s waaaaay to low! I placed mine according to where my sleeve finished with my arms at my side; so that the pockets take up the slack of the shorter sleeves and keep my wrists warm!

Also a good opportunity, with this picture and the one above, to talk about the surface texture of this fabric. One side is felt like and softly bristled. The other side (which I think is technically the wrong side, lol) is super hairy and kinda like a sparse mohair, and that is the side that I used. Just because! I figure if it’s already fluffy, then any fluff it picks up will just look like it was meant to be there, right? In any case….look at that texture. Love!

burda short coat 102

So also featured above is a close up of the seaming detail at the neck/shoulder which is another nice feature of this pattern. The shoulder and sleeves are split up into sections and seamed together which gives an interesting point of interest to an otherwise plain coat. I topstitched either side of all of those seams to accentuate and bring them out even more.

In terms of pressing this wool. Some steam and a satisfying “thwack” with a chunky wooden object will give you a satisfactorily crisp edge 😉burda short coat 102

As can be seen below. The bulkiest part where the facing meets the hem and the lining….just gave that a ruddy good bashing and the job was a goodun…burda short coat 102

Which of course brings me nicely onto the lining and how beautifully it goes with the mouflon wool!

burda short coat 102

It’s this dotty black and grey viscose lining from The Splendid Stitch. What I love about it, apart from how silky it feels, is the fact that the dots are random and irregularly placed and shaped. Which lends a kind of cheeky rebelliousness to a traditionally  girly fabric….burda short coat 102

If we can all take a moment to admire that sheen….and that well inserted lining….and the fact that I even took the time to purchase and sew on a hanging loop…

 

Which might lead you to conclude that I consider this coat to be a success and a keeper…burda 102 short coat

burda 102 short coat

Well, you’d be right! And just for the record when it comes to these photos…I did brush my hair before I left the house….it was just really, REALLY windy that day. But that’s ok. Cos mama’s got a brand new coat 😉

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39 Comments

  1. Daisy Jones March 18, 2016

    Portia you are a Saville row tailor in disguise!!?
    superb style and work! loving the pics of you too!
    bestest xxx

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Lol Daisy 😉 Hardly, but I’ll take it 😉 Thanks lovely!

      Reply
  2. Caroline March 18, 2016

    This is a great coat! Love everything about it especially the bell sleeves and the giant snaps.

    Reply
  3. Wai March 18, 2016

    Love the coat, especially the poppers!

    Thank you for sharing your pics ‘n’ tips too! Great new use for the rolling pin! ?

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      The rolling pin is a great way to take out some agression too Wai, lol! 😉

      Reply
  4. Jane March 18, 2016

    Serious coat envy going on here! Everything about this is fabulous – right down to the very neat sewing on those snaps! I also love the irregular dots on that lining. So pleased to have a post from you today – I’m suffering a bit from Instagram withdrawal due to today’s boycott!

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Aw thanks lovely! And thanks for noticing the neat sewing on those snaps Jane 😉 We’ll all be back on IG tomorrow. Not long to go now, lol 😉

      Reply
  5. Brenda Cupryna March 18, 2016

    looks very smart but casual at the same time. well done

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Thanks Brenda! I think you’ve hit the nail on the head! I feel neither under, or overdressed in this. Just comfortable and put together 🙂

      Reply
  6. Ingrid March 18, 2016

    All I can think when looking at these photo’s is how EFFORTLESSLY COOL you look. Seriously. Awesome coat and styling lady!

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Ingrid, it takes one to know one! But thank you! Force ten gales when you’re taking photos tend to lend a kind of “ah, I don’t really care anymore” look to proceedings, lol!!!

      Reply
  7. Sue March 18, 2016

    Your coat is fabulous and looks awesome on you. Just love the large domes!!

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Thank you Sue!

      Reply
  8. Caroline March 18, 2016

    Haha fantastic! I like to sew things at the end of the season as well. Your coat is superb, I really love the oversized form.

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Thanks Caroline 🙂 The proportions are really fun aren’t they!

      Reply
  9. Carol Milton March 18, 2016

    This coat looks fantastic and just what I have been looking for so I must get that Burda pattern ASAP! Also, may I thank you for putting up these great photos and description, it has helped me deal with my Instagram withdrawal symptoms!

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Oooh glad you like Carol! It’s a nice little pattern 🙂 Weirdly quiet without IG isn’t it?!

      Reply
  10. Jane March 18, 2016

    What a perfect result Portia, it looks totally chic and totally expensive! I made a coat from a basic Burda pattern last year – yes, they take a bit of tweaking, but the basic drafting is sound and they’re v good value. Your coat is a classic style, I hope you enjoy wearing it for years! x

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      This was my first Burda Jane. And you’re right in everything you say. I was a little intimidated by the lack of instruction but actually it’s quite liberating, lol!!
      I DO love my coat already! Thank you so much!

      Reply
  11. Hélène March 18, 2016

    Magnifique! Everything is perfect, from the lining to the styling. Like a pro!

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Aw Hélène thank you so much! Pleased with this one for sure!

      Reply
  12. Victoria March 18, 2016

    Looking good lady! That is one damn fine coat 🙂 It really does look like you’ve bought an expensive coat. Love that lining, I may have to copy you when I eventually start my coat!

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Copy away lovely! It does actually look expensive doesn’t it?!

      Reply
  13. Maris Olsen March 18, 2016

    Darling coat -love the style AND the fabric!

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Maris thank you 🙂 Fabric is delicious isn’t it?!

      Reply
  14. kalimak March 18, 2016

    Beautiful coat, Portia! When it comes to timing, I relate completely — I made two sundresses last summer just as the summer was nearing its end. I love them, even though I didn’t get to wear them much. But I will wear them next summer. After all, I made them, so they’re here to last.

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Maybe we’re just slow getting started, lol! But as you say, there’s always next year….so actually, when you think about it we are waaaaaay ahead, ha ha! 😉

      Reply
  15. Sheryll March 18, 2016

    It looks really cool Portia – the sort of coat that goes with everything!

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Thanks Sheryll! You’re right. A nice simple all rounder this one 🙂 Overall pleased I think 😉

      Reply
  16. Helen March 18, 2016

    Love this! It’s gorgeous. Perfect!

    Reply
    • Portia Lawrie March 18, 2016

      Thanks Helen! I could really see you in this you know!

      Reply
  17. seamsoddlouise March 18, 2016

    Great coat, it will be cold enough to wear it for a while yet! Those pockets are fab as are the sleeves. Louise

    Reply
  18. Nina March 19, 2016

    What a beautiful coat! And I just love that lining fabric – may have to have a look at getting some of that …

    Reply
  19. Fabric Tragic March 19, 2016

    Gorgeous. I love giant snaps – my local fabric store has them in red, I used them on a cape (the idea of sewing buttonholes on wool give me the willies)

    Reply
  20. Jenny Gale March 19, 2016

    This is a wonderful coat. And so glad I came across this post – I’m almost done making Burda 7072 which is a similar, collarless style. I was wondering about hidden snap fastenings and then I saw yours, confirming that they look fabulous (though I’m not sure something hidden ‘looks’ fabulous!).

    Reply
  21. Margo March 19, 2016

    What a gorgeous neckline on this coat! The entire coat is beautiful and I always love a fun lining. Great job!

    Reply
  22. Gail Felker March 20, 2016

    Love your projects! This style of coat is really right on – and looks light enough for a chilly spring!

    Reply
  23. Lisa G. March 21, 2016

    You definitely know what looks good on you! The coat is terrific, and the lining is a perfect match. Congratulations!

    Reply

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