FO: Split Hem Maya Woven Tee

Finally got around to photographing this baby! I DO have a tutorial lined up for this little hack on the Maya Pattern by Marilla Walker but am running out of time before the launch of The Refashioners 2015 on Monday! So for now…here’s a little show and tell… (Do you like my new stool  btw? One of those with the up down lever! You have to play on those don’t you!)SPLIT  HEM MAYA (2)

I was in the process of bulk cutting 3 of these out in time for a holiday to Greece last month. In my haste I ended up cutting them slightly too short! (Time to fess up. I eyeballed them. No…I will never learn!) BUT, as is often the case, it turned out to be a happy accident because it forced me to come up with a solution…

And guess what! I love this little split hem band detail! Not only does it solve the length problem, but it adds a really nice design detail too…SPLIT  HEM MAYA (8) 900

 

It’s a tricky fabric to show detail on, but hopefully you can make this out! (And as I said, there will be a step by step that will go into more detail. I’ve just got to edit the photos). I opted to add a wider band at the back than the front. For modesty reasons (ahem…nobody needs to see my muffins ya know?) but also because I’m a bit of a fan of high low hem shenanigans 🙂

JORD WOOD WATCH

In case you were wondering about my swanky new wristwear….it’s a watch…made from wood!! Now this was sent to me by the sweet people at Jord. I get approached to review stuff like this from time to time. I normally decline, but I was so intrigued by this. I mean…it’s a watch…made from wood! I usually have a problem with watches as my skin reacts to the metal unless it’s a precious metal. So perhaps this is the solution? There’s still the metal on the clasp I guess, but fingers crossed! I hope so because I am rather taken with it actually. The wood makes it super lightweight, tactile, breathable and pretty unique. Cute right?

Anyway…back to the top. Something about sewing blogging makes it ok to publish pictures of ones bust, ha ha! But it’s the sleeve detail I wanted to mention and also have a little question about…SPLIT  HEM MAYA (15)

It’s a simple enough thing. A folded over strip of fabric, the same circumference as the sleeve opening. Sewn to the sleeve RS facing then SA turned under and understitched to create a teeny/narrow cuff. No shaping on the sleeve. So here’s the question…WHY does the cuff kink out like that at the top of my arm?? What am I missing here sewing ninjas??

It’s a small thing…but it’s buggin’ me! And I know that one of you out there has the answer. Because you’re awesome.

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16 Comments

  1. Queen of Fifty Cents July 29, 2015

    I’m going to be lurking around your comments, since I too want the answer!

    Reply
    • portia July 29, 2015

      He he! Glad it’s not just me!

      Reply
  2. Emily July 29, 2015

    This blog provides an answer, he is an independent designer/maker http://www.cvsagisi.com/blog/2015/5/8/blouse-and-the-beast1

    Reply
    • portia July 29, 2015

      Thank you Emily! Just took a look. Will try that on the next one!

      Reply
      • Emily July 30, 2015

        I’m glad it was helpful!

        Reply
    • Suzanne July 30, 2015

      Well that response was completely on the money Emily. Nice!

      Reply
      • Emily July 30, 2015

        Ah thanks

        Reply
  3. Kathryn July 29, 2015

    I just love this top! I’m hoping to get a Maya top made before the summer is out and I might just need to try out this hem band so I’ll look out for your tutorial. I eyeball things all the time, usually it works out but not always, and I never learn either!

    Reply
    • portia July 30, 2015

      Life is to short for measuring sometimes, right?!

      Reply
  4. Joyce July 30, 2015

    Just a thought here, but could it be because the binding is cut on the straight grain and is sewn to the armhole which is on the bias, if you know what I mean? Maybe cutting the binding on the bias would help but it could just be a ‘design feature’ of this type of top. I’ve noticed this happening on one of my RTW tops too.

    Reply
    • portia July 30, 2015

      Alas it is cut on the bias Joyce. Perhaps I’ll try it on the grain next time!

      Reply
  5. Sonja August 9, 2015

    Haaaaaaaa, wish I’d seen this post yesterday! Just finished up sewing two kimono sleeve tees that both have the kicky-up thing there, and they just have a simple 5/8″ narrow hem, so I don’t think it’s specific to the band you used. After hemming the sleeves, I noticed that the pattern envelope shows that same issue! I’ll try curving in the sleeve the way the post in Emily’s comment describes next time!

    Reply
    • portia August 9, 2015

      Me too!!

      Reply
  6. Tegan August 17, 2015

    It could be that the sleeve stretches out just a tiny bit there, and you need to have your binding be a smidge SMALLER than your opening, in order to rein it in a bit. Similar to doing the knit crew-neck attachment. The binding is a little smaller than the opening, and it’s gently stretched while stitching. This bring the opening snugged down.

    Of course it could be the pattern problem as shown in that demo. Who knows! The joys of sewing, every fabric and pattern combo is different. :-p

    Reply
    • portia August 18, 2015

      Yep. That makes sense Tegan. Might try that next! Thank you!

      Reply
  7. mercedes September 24, 2015

    english is not my mothertongue
    I think this happens because the strip does not cotinue the direction of the the shoulderline and the opposite line. if you perpetuate these lines they meet in the “endlessness”.
    the stripe breaks this line.
    hope you unterstand what i try to declare

    Reply

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