FO: Double Hemmed Hemlock Tee Hack

Time for some deets on another hemlock tee hack! Man I just can’t leave that pattern alone can I?!! I’d say I’m getting my money’s worth out of this pattern except I can’t say that because it’s free to download here! I bought another pattern from Jen’s collection so my feelings of guilt over getting so much for nothing, feel assuaged for now! You’ll have seen this top in my post about these refashioned trousers. But here’s the lowdown on what I did…DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

The neckline, cuffs and hemline are all finished using the deconstructed finish I described in this post. But I played with the overall silhouette and proportions of the design as well…

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

The hem features a wide double hem band with the edges left raw to curl. The idea came about when I realised this jersey lacked weight and was a little too see through in the muffin top area if you know  what I mean! So a double thickness of fabric added weight and solved the see through part as well.

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

In terms of proportions I’m weirdly being drawn to a more cropped and fitted silhouette up top. So the hem and the sleeves got chopped on this incarnation…

 

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

To create the hem band I made the hemlock up as normal, then cut straight across the hem at hip level (yes that is masking tape as a cutting guide)…

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

I used the piece I cut off to create the hem band by folding it in half WS together…

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

Then serged it around the hem of the shirt. RS together and folded edge of the band aligned with the raw edge of the hem…

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

This results in a double layer of fabric with raw edges that will curl with wear and laundering. An effect I personally love. But you could always reverse the process and end up with a clean, folded edge at the bottom if the deconstructed/raw edge look isn’t your bag…

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

Sleeve wise, I wanted to echo the cropped proportions of the body so cut them to elbow length…

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

I cut strips from my fabric remnants using, you guessed it, masking tape as my guide. (See this post on why masking tape is so useful in the sewing room!)

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

(I find a bit of spray starch along the edges of jersey keeps it from curling so much during the cutting/construction process. 😉 )

 

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

Then used those strips to finish the neckline and cuffs with the same raw edge finish. Full  step by step on that can be found here . This is a less trimmed down version of the neckline in that post…

DOUBLE HEMMED HEMLOCK TEE HACK

There are 2 more hemlocks that I haven’t blogged, and I think I now have 6 in total ha! The Hemlock by Grainline Studio  and the Maya by Marilla Walker are fast becoming….scratch that…they ARE my two TNT top patterns. Not because they have show stopping qualities. But because they are well drafted simple wardrobe basics that are ripe for little customisations like this. And Amen to more patterns like that!

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14 Comments

  1. Jane July 30, 2015

    The T is such a great shape and I love that speckly fabric.

    Reply
    • portia July 31, 2015

      The fabric is really cute Jane. And a total bargain from a shop on Walthamstow High St. £3 a metre!

      Reply
      • Jane July 31, 2015

        A bargain for sure!

        Reply
  2. Lisa G July 30, 2015

    Love the double hem treatment! Very cool fabric.

    Reply
    • portia July 31, 2015

      Thanks Lisa! My pathetic attempt to add a sprinkle of colour, lol!

      Reply
  3. Helen July 30, 2015

    Love the jersey you’ve used here, and I love the effect of the double band hem. I tried to do the neckband of a jersey Linden using a similar technique earlier this year, but I accidentally cut my neckband on the crossgrain, so the curling has gone inwards instead of outwards, which just looks daft! It’s black jersey and I already made a hole in it once unpicking my previous neckband attempt, so it’s staying as is! Next time!

    REALLY need to make a hemlock.

    Reply
    • portia July 30, 2015

      I did that! On a project for the magazine the day before deadline! You should defo make a hemlock!

      Reply
  4. Hélène July 30, 2015

    Great hack. Love this hem detail. The whole outfit looks so now and effortless. BTW, don’t feel guilty about using this marvelous free pattern. I’m sure you contribute to Grainline’s success by posting so many stylish variations.

    Reply
    • portia July 30, 2015

      Thanks Hélène 🙂 Yes, you are probably right, lol!

      Reply
  5. daisy jones July 30, 2015

    Portia I love that rough double layered edge…will copy asap…thanks for the tip!!
    bestest daisy j x

    Reply
    • portia July 30, 2015

      Copy away! 🙂

      Reply
  6. Sarah August 9, 2015

    What a great idea! Less hemming is always good 🙂 I really like the tiny flecks in the fabric.

    Reply
    • portia August 9, 2015

      Hiya Sarah! Long time no speak! I love the multi coloured flecks SO much 🙂 Thank you 🙂

      Reply
  7. Kimberley Hunt February 22, 2016

    Wow, this is so cool! I have downloaded the Hemlock pattern and have 2 fabrics ready & waiting to be made up. I’m so glad I saw this post, as one of them will look great with the deconstructed finish that you’ve done here. Gorgeous outfit, I’m now off to read about how you refashioned those pants!!

    Reply

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