Top Draftalong # 28 – Bust Adjustments

Ahhh, finally! I am soooooo sorry if I’ve kept anyone waiting with these posts. But I have managed to squeeze some time out of the last few days to make some progress on the Top Draftalong. I have lot’s to share with you, but first things first. This is the last of the “mini posts” detailing the fitting issues covered in the book. Bust Adjustments. (Bleurgh!!) As luck would have it though,  there are a number of decent tutorials out there to reference for this particular area of fitting.; a roundup of which can be found at the end of this post.  Here’s what the book has to say on the subject of bust adjustments:

“With a larger than average bustline, your toile will appear very stretched across the bust and the darts will not be providing enough fullness. Mark your bust point with a dot on the toile then transfer this position to the paper pattern. Draw a line through the centre of the dart to the bust point. Draw another line beginning at the middle of the shoulder, down through the bust point to the hem, passing through the middle point of the waist. Cut through the dart, leaving a 3mm hinge at the bust point, then cut from the shoulder to the hem, leaving a hinge at each end. Place a piece of paper underneath the pattern, then spread out the vertical opening by the required amount at the bust point. The dart will automatically be enlarged. Pin in place and then reshape the side seam. (diagram far right of image)”

“A smaller than average bust forms folds of excess fabric over the bust which must be dispensed with. draw the lines and cut your pattern as before, but this time overlap the vertical opening at the bust point to remove the excess fabric. This of course, decreases the bust dart. Reshape the side seam”

Gertie has a roundup of great tutorials here. There’s an example of the FBA  in action here and here and a well illustrated example of the SBA here (in fact the first stages are applicable to the FBA too).

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  1. Tara Assing May 18, 2016

    I have been looking for a basic sloper,all i find are hard to follow examples for a beginner,do you have an easy to follow sloper? Many thanks

    • Portia Lawrie May 18, 2016

      Hi Tara! Hmmm…this is one of those situations where the thing doesnt make sense until you actually do it. That said, there’s no avoiding the fact that it is fairly complex BUT when you do it, it starts to make sense. I would recommend checking out Ralph Pink patterns. They have video tutorial on there that shows him drafting a sloper from scratch. He’s doing it digitally but the principles are identical in paper and pencil. It’s a useful thing to watch the bodice sloper take shape. Gives you a handle on what all those measurements are for! AND they do have a little package you can purchase that does all of the calculations for you. Which looks pretty good.


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